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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Truth In Transparency

S  ometimes fashion hangs onto certain qualities for but a moment. These are innovations that fail to resonate and therefore get shelved. at other times, a general expression can take hold and become a strong perpetual presence that eventually becomes a decade definer. Take shoulder pads (which, towards the end of the 80s people were begging you to do). When strong shoulders came about in the 40s and 50s, they represented strength via defence. As the return of cold war threats emerged in the 80s, we saw the shoulder pads return, and this quality was clear in the context of psychological interpretation. To see them return now makes sense as we have become again a culture of fear and in need of protection.

Another one of these material aspects has repetitive roots with multiple meanings, which is what makes decoding fashion so interesting. When we look at sheer textiles such as chiffon, organza and tulle, we see varying levels of structure, and that is what these textiles literally are about as far as function. In the context of artistic expression, choice of materials carry with them the versatility of relevance translating mood and sentiment the way an artist innately chooses colour and texture of a brushstroke or manipulation of mixed media to convey message into objects to inspire and provoke.

​The bold assertion of seizing power via sexuality in the 20s upheld the use of sheer textiles in design, while the gossamer lightness and gentle heavenliness of sheers offered respite in the contrast of the ugliness of war when used in the 40s and 50s. That recapturing of power via assertion of sexuality brought back use of sheers in the 80s as empowerment of sexuality was given a boost, while its spiritual associations helped reinforce collections inspired along those lines in the early to mid 90s, only to see the sexuality message further emphasized in this century. 

Now we have deeper thoughts and sophistication in our net-enhanced vocabulary growing in this decade, and one of the undercurrents is, oddly enough, the message of transparency. While sheer textiles have been handily added to enhance architectural formations and dimensional effects, it has also served to convey our desire for transparency. This is found in the way the sheer has become used. Instead of just being a foundation or simple layer, newer approaches have seen formation of one kind of shape or cut to distort or give illusion of one cut over the "truth" that is underneath. much the way we find information these days.

We have advertising crafted into articles and infomercials disguised as informative input. We have entertainment and news lines blurred and distorted by tabloids and independent sources with targeted ulterior motives. We have social media influencers now alerted and required to disclose their reviews and endorsements as brand-influenced versus independently recommended, but only after concerns brought this possibility to light. Politics has caused us to demand fact-checking as we now find exposes and discussion on universality of standards under circumspection.

The comparison of what we see versus what is and the desire to know has been long in development, and all this time fashion has been hinting at this through the sustained use of materials that take the conceptual into the literal. It is no wonder that we have continued transparency in most collections to the degree that it has become a mainstay feature that has been ongoing for several seasons, and is not expected to diminish as we continue to seek the truth as we come to understand what is versus what seems. Until we gain satisfaction, expect this see-through aspect of fashion to sustain, and I think we can agree that is not going to happen overnight.

 

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