T he Fall Winter 2017/2018 collections are winding down and now we have time to catch our breath before the next quarter when the Resort 2017 collections are presented. So, for now, we can further examine the various prominent trend expressions that designers have collectively chose.
The choice of historical references by tapping past trend characteristics is a common expression amongst designers. Current events can remind one who is well-versed in history with regards to parallels or patterns. For example, the current political climate exhibited in various western nations regarding xenophobia has been emboldened as political changes have allowed more right-wing views to come into play in response to the sudden influx of refugees that have strained resources at a time when many nationals are facing growing economic divides and hardship that erodes compassionate support. This, plus the political climate change in some larger western powers such as the UK & USA seem to be emboldening extremist sentiments along racial and gender lines; all this reminds heavily of the 20s and 30s where similar economic strains resulted in increased xenophobia and decreased tolerance overall, contributing to the lead-up of the rise of fascism and authoritarianism in Europe that sparked World War II. Those who lived through this tumultuous period are doing their best to speak out to warn the general public of the similarities as event unfolding seem to bring about similar paths that we will regret should they repeat. However, the current population, especially those who are younger that have no connections directly or through living relatives who lived through those times, are not emotionally connected to the past, and thus do not experience the way history is unfolding in the same way those who lived it do. That is, they don't have a connection, so it seems less likely, despite grim parallels.
Most designers, though, are closer to that connection and are better connected to those who have the time and means to indulge in further education and understanding of the nuances that parallels can be drawn from. And so, we see decades carrying such similarities tapped and brought into the creative fold.
The darker expression of this is, of close, closer to the war years and those involve more dire economics. Collections from Belstaff, Christian Siriano, Elizabeth Kennedy, Ermanno Scervino, Gareth Pugh, Jacquemus, Jonathan Simkhai, Leonard Paris, Loewe, Marissa Webb, Rosetta Getty, Sacai, Sea, Trina Turk, and ZAC Zac Posen all contain whisps of components, be they a fur collar, a hallmark cut of a skirt, or even vague silhouettes and/or textiles that capture the mood of the 30s. It was a time where creativity and criticisms via artistic voice responded to growing entrenchment of the worst of ourselves yet manifest. And it was those most progressive and bravest of arts that eventually saw the wrath of a relentless evil that took advantage of a weary public that just wanted to be heard and looked after in the most stressful of growing circumstances via scapegoating.
But what about the lighter, earlier expression? Does that not merit a mention? Well, of course, and even better, it deserves a separate platform that will be covered in the next article.