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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Seamlessly Yours

T he textile revolution continues to shape our 21st century direction. Along with new innovations with nanotechnology are new compounds via intricate examination of molecular properties that were, before now, impossible. But with the increased power that our computers hold, we can find solutions to complexities that unleash untold variety for us to indulge in.

Fashion is not afraid of the new when it comes to materials and techniques; there are a steady stream of vanguards that bring in new techniques and textiles to move us forward. Our focus is on what will shape our coming century.

For decades we have toyed with the concept of seamless garments, such as when seamless pantyhose was made in the mid-60s or when the first seamless technology for knitwear was patented in the early 80s. We have long dreamed of relinquishing the seams to liberate us from the subtle bulk seams give.

In 1999, Issey Miyake, already known for innovation in design and textiles, decided to depart for his label to focus on textile creation, leaving with a subtle yet powerful creation called A-POC i.e. a piece of cloth. This was a tube where the wearer could cut out their garment and customize it. What made it genius was that the resulting garment was seamless. His concept was an incredible foreshadowing of what was to come, but only years later after technology had time to catch up. The further revelation was that this was in creation and experimentation back in the mid-90s, demonstrating the visionary capacity this master had to merge seamless technology with the personal applications that a DIY culture such as what we've had for a while now would desire.

Cue to our decade as seamless garment technology has grown up. While commercial manufacturers are playing with the concept (particularly in Italy), it has been more limited to manufacturers. However, one company called OpenKnit created a knitting machine last fall that could produce seamless garments in an hour...without any knowledge of pattern-making, cutting or even sewing. The democratization of seamless garment creation got personal.

This May, another company called Electroloom started a Crowdfunding campaign for a 3D printer that can spin seamless garments, again for personal use at home.

Chanel has jumped on the bandwagon by adding seamless garments to their most recent couture show, the Fall Winter 2015 collection to bring the Chanel aesthetic into the 21st century. When a fashion powerhouse embraces an idea, you know the concept will reverberate from aspirations into mainstream.

And so, between the exclusivity that brings attention and the viability unleashed in existing as well as newly released technology, we can see the newest piece of the puzzle regarding how fashion is shaping to be for the coming century. And this shaping looks to be dependent on the way we mold, craft and print rather than cut our proverbial cloth.

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