Designers cannot disagree that looking from afar is always, at one point for another, a source of inspiration. The lure of exotica from foreign cultures (or at least foreign to their perspective) seen through fresh eyes uncovers elements that may be overlooked or taken for granted by one’s own citizenry. This is natural as we tend to be desensitized by our surroundings when we face them daily. However, anyone from outside will recognize and even appreciate elements that go unnoticed or become diminished by our familiarity. This happens in even mere mundane scenarios such as one’s own job or home, where we have all experienced the new presence pointing out elements that may have gone otherwise unnoticed. Their fresh examination of details can be intrinsic to finding value (or finding need of repair) amidst the already familiar, and designers who do so allow us to see aspects of different cultures , finding value in unfamiliar expressions in elements not normally expressed in our own cultural palette.
More so is finding foreign reference when tied with present elements of societal expression. Our political unrest over the past year that was branded The Occupy Movement was a powerful expression of dissent. Yes, it fizzled out as the message was too broad and direction was lacking, but it represented a large coalition of dissatisfaction in the status quo, and the sheer might of initial organization through social media demonstrated that the public could unite under mutual perspective with a speed and size not before seen. This speed and size did create dialogue and got the attention of those in power who could see some very uncontrollable consequences had it carried through. The power of protest gets its power though the size of the population and international discord of this magnitude was underestimated.
The fear wasn’t only the size, but because some participants were drawing comparisons of revolution under similar circumstances through historical comparison, mainly the French Revolution. Apathy from the ruling class amidst public suffering only encouraged results which ended that dynasty’s reign under gruesome means. Some of the “one percent”, as they were called seen on videos on the very public medium YouTube, was mocking the protesters and this only added fuel to the protests and resulted in broader public support. The protests suffered from lack of focus in delivering cohesive messages of remedy, failure of leadership and short attention spans but the point driven home by the size of the voice of dissention was made clear and governments realize they had to make some changes. In that regard the protest did succeed, if even only to a limited degree.
But this wasn’t the only point in time where revolution arose from a disenchanted public facing disparity under apathetic rule from a class with a remote and unreachable standard of living. The Bolshevik Revolution in Russia was another where class apathy opened the doors to rebellion from a public tired of substandard living while seeing their leaders enjoying a lavish lifestyle and tuning out the need for relief from the hardships of poverty. This revolution resulted in the assassination of the ruling Czar and his family and ushered in a new political system where the people were in charge and leaders were no longer separated by an unfair high standard of living. Here the rulers were expected to share in the responsibility and the people were to enjoy more of the fruits of the collective labour. Of course we know how things have turned out since then as power corrupts, absolute power corrupts absolutely and greed is an unfortunate aspect of humanity that creeps into even the best intentions, especially where politics are concerned. But the foundation of this revolution is very much in harmony with what we are seeing today and some designers have found a way to tap into this reference while anticipating future events with more superficial connections.
The public will soon be in the throes of the upcoming Summer Olympics in London. Many collections, of course, have incorporated some degree of athleticism in their spring/summer collections just as in the 90s. But there is another Olympics anticipated: the winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia. And the tangled web of reference brings about many elements into play.
Ongoing apocalyptic fears last felt during the 80s with Russia as a key player are somewhat in focus, especially in Europe where proximity is paramount. Also present is political unrest amidst the recent election of Putin where the fairness of his being elected is not going away and concerns that their nuclear arsenal may not be as safeguarded as hoped. But while this period has a place in various element of the collections (especially the French), there is something more that holds relevance.
The book “Dr. Zhivago” a story of a doctor/poet who falls for the wife of a political activist during the Bolshevik revolution was written in 1957 and came out in colourful splendor in 1965, both years that fall within trend influence currently seen in Fall/Winter collections. The story’s romantic images provide a backdrop for a story with an undercurrent that falls in line with current political concerns. The glamour of the period, though, is something a designer can sink their teeth into. Some have.
Eastern European, Slavic, Balkan, Russian...various aspects and hints of this whole region were found in collections from Altuzurra, Clements Ribeiro, Temperly London, James Long for Fashion East, and Versace. Valentino was vaguer with some folksy patterning that leaned to Eastern European origins, while Andrew Gn had a czarist military jacket amidst his collection. Balmain had Faberge references in textile patterning while Louis Vuitton had some heavy embellishments that seemed very Faberge-inspired in their arrangement and ostentation.
The cacophony of rich patterning is an aspect of Russian culture in harmony with the maxi print craze that currently competes with the minimalism that other designers are leaning to. In a way, there is a revolution within the collections, one side going for as much stimuli as one can absorb versus the wiping away of any traces of pattern to offer a clean palette. And much like the battles within our species, only time will tell which one will prevail and that, of course is not always by majority rule.