There is no shortage of worries in the world. While some places are not hurting as much the nervousness remains for those more aware of international matters when looking at the employment statistics out of normally prosperous nations, some at Depression-era levels. Some parts of the world are struggling with extraordinary weather that global warming was anticipated to bring. War plagues areas as murmurs of nuclear technology involvement brigs anxiety to countries beyond regions. The recent dissolution of truce between Koreas and threat of trans-Pacific attacks do little to bring assurances. Meanwhile, political unrest in other areas makes some wonder if the world isn’t going mad.
Comedians can make some rather interesting observations about the human condition as they make us laugh at some rather uncomfortable truths about us. For example, it is only in the throes of tragedy and upheavals do so many “find” religion. If this is true, religion certainly must be on the minds of many these days.
Along with that is the recent change of Popes within the Catholic church, the first resignation in hundreds of years fuels speculation over relevance and scandal as it enters public dialogue. It may not normally be the acceptable topic at the dinner table, but all the scenarios make it hard for us not to do so. Although the resignation of the pope did not occur at the time, the other matters that precipitated it along with the worlds woes did, and some designers responded in the best language they have: interpretive design.
In particular, Alexander McQueen made clams to derive inspiration from religion and catholic excess, and the show made clear references to the hierarchy within that religion as it took inspiration from formal ceremonial gowns in their designs. The ascent from priest went up to heaven ending with angels.
Others were inspired in a different direction: mecca. Some of the graduates from the bastion of design education, Central St. Martins, looked more to the Middle East in the execution of their designs as they incorporated the volume play that is currently being explored in collections. Asaaf Reeb, for example, incorporated a prayer rug into a shirt design. Others were more general in looking towards the Middle East while keeping the looks minimal and monastic. Marie Rydald and Jessica Fawcett worked with cartans. Nicomede Talavera did so as well with more Aarbesque/Moroccan flourishes while Nayoung Moon added a pop art edge to his caftans.
And beyond Central St. Martins, J. Crew had some Moroccan elements while Marios Schwab had some arabesque elements in the cacophony of hybrid references in his design. Meanwhile, Jean-Pierre Braganza seemed to be channeling the darker religion with some more Wiccan sidgal symbolism incorporated in his designs.
This appearance of religious reference, defined or vague, carries forward from collections that did so in earlier seasons. And as those woes have yet to fade, so have yet our glance for help from the heavens. Can we find happiness in our beliefs? That is a deeper question that time can only help along, and if it makes any impact you can be sure that more observant eyes will communicate that in collections to come.