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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Cinematic Inspirations

We are a malleable lot, subject to suggestions and influences as long as they meet our ego’s desires. Ultimately, we seek whatever will help us to feel better, be it about ourselves or our image to others. We show our characters in our dress to convey belonging as well as to let others know where we stand in relation to our world and our environment. Sometimes the local culture takes more import and sometimes our allegiance to more global or worldly aspects comes into play, if only to let the world know we are “in the know”. Thus, the choice to align with status markers is more commonplace than one thinks because we are social animals and most of us have the innate need to belong to the group or pack.

We are also aware of status, especially where conformity and competition exists within our social structure. To be connected with more current aspects can be a powerful driver of behavior, and the elements that shape us can be varied and fluid. But the quality of those influences in relation to our being is a factor to be taken into consideration. Here, as part of our desire to elevate ourselves amongst our peers we tend to connect with whatever demonstrates a higher level of quality. This can be by aligning with successful achievers such as sports figures or entrepreneurs, or creators who are doing groundbreaking work. The accessibility is another aspect to consider, which is why our entertainment is more frequently a factor of influence. It is more accessible and more congruent to our topics during the socialization process. That is, more people know about and can have an opinion about these things, so they have more social influence. Think about it, when’s the last time you spoke about an entrepreneur versus music?

Lately the excitement has been in the higher quality of cinema. There have been some great films and a part of the conversation has been about the costumes. The sexy meshing of retro trash with sex appeal of “American Hustle” certainly found its way into the Fall Winter collections so far, with elements lifted from that decade as they were in the 90s, another decade that persists to linger in many of the collections to date. Of course there are reasons for the persistence of the 70s as an influence, many which were covered in previous articles in this blog ( see “92 87 74 38 29 12”, February 25th 2011; “Demonstrations at Burqa-ly”, April 1st 2011; “Garden party…at East Egg or Collingwood Manor?”, May 27th 2011; “Clothes to ponder feminist dichotomy”, June 10th 2011; “Nanny And The Professor Of Haight-Ashbury”, June 17th 2012; and  “Back Here Again”, May 26th 2013) and it is only due to other factors that it still remains relevant as influence today, something  to be covered later. But you see aspects incorporated into collections from Cushnie et Ochs, Erin Featherston, Mara Hoffman, Peter Som, Preen Line, Rachel Comey, Tocca, and Veronica Beard.

Another film that made an impact (and connects us to where our focus is) was the film “Gravity”, tapping into our fascination with space while connecting with our struggle of fear and survival in solitude. There are many sci-fi influences, with more now that we embrace tech fibres juxtaposed with 60s cuts.  We do as that was the last decade and past articles made that connection before too (see “Defining Boundaries”, September 22nd 2013 and “6EQUJ5”, January 5th 2014). The influence of this decade is more pronounced as seen in most collection so far. The telltale short shifts and sky-high hemlines hark back to the energy of a decade where reaching for the stars wasn’t just the fodder for science fiction but happening before their eyes.

But the most prominent is sometimes a film that already reflects the current mindset that is our future, one free of costumes and thorough in its pragmatic approach. The point of view may not be romantic but the resonance is in the modern and relatable aesthetic of “Her”. This is another film that has found its influence, especially as the costumes were created By Opening Ceremony and a capsule line based on those designs is available online currently. The simplistic androgyny has been a mainstay since post war, and some collections, such as those by Alexander Wang, Creatures of the Wind, Nicholas K, Richard Chai Love, had more pronounced aspects that connected with the film’s design approach, although to be fair the masculine play that the costumes hinge on is omnipresent (see collections from Adam Lippes, Jenni Kanye, Lisa Perry, Mara Hoffman, Nonoo, and Rebecca Taylor).

As stated before our influences are more varied and sophisticated than to pick and choose a handful, but our entertainment so far has done an admirable job of connecting with us more deeply, tapping into the power of emotion that many marketing and advertising companies recognize. The proliferation of the current trend of storytelling to forge deeper ties between brands and the public may seem like manipulation, but the awareness of emotional connections as a tool is powerful knowledge that is not ignored, especially where profit is concerned. A successful designer will recognize the benefits of aligning with this and bring those connections into their collections to create components that add to relevance, even if it’s at a subliminal level. And so, recognizing the power of our entertainment this year, we see aspects in collections accordingly. Consider it an exercise in active listening, something that editors and buyers wondered whether as existing before.


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