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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Fear. Our society thrives on it and loathes it simultaneously. Our industries exploit it as part of a sophisticated manipulation where our insecurities are the foundation of marketing tactics meant to attract customers and increase the bottom line. It is this exploitation of insecurity that competes with healthier, more positive messages also leveraged to create a need for consumer goods.

Fear also is the driving engine of change. No force is as powerful or as primal as this, especially as it is ingrained in so many other aspects of our daily life. In fact, it is because of our generations have been progressively conditioned to energize their spending habits via subconscious access of this emotion that it has inadvertently brought more urgency towards resolution of desperation when our livelihood expectations are challenged to a degree that has not been seen since a few centuries ago.

The circumstances are statistically not as dire compared to the Great Depression, when almost a quarter of the population was unemployed without means to neither feed themselves nor sustain shelter. The situationdid huge damage to the population's psyche at the time and many felt defeated.Nor was our current plight like the 70s (disappointment) or the early 90s (disillusionment); this time is profoundly different.

Previously, the size of the middle class was, up until the twentieth century, relatively small. It was a relatively new phenomenon, when looking at our culture's history of development, for such a large portion of the population to have this degree of wealth in the scope of our society's advancement. We have also grown accustomed to this progression of economic democratics with the possibility of social mobility no longer a pipe dream but achieveable through hard work, prudent saving, focus and determination.

This level of economic equity has been subtly eroded in the slowest, most gradual fashion over the last forty years. For example, in many developed mations interest rates for savings accounts have been reduced to a rediculous amount that only marginally produces value over keeping it in a matress and wages have not kept up with inflation and the cost of living to a level that has now become as conspicuous as the increase of workload that has made workplace stress into a recognized illness. The public has been asked by our elected officials to absorb cuts to the social safety nets and take on more taxes in the face of structures that have reduced taxes for the upper percentile while awarding themselves larger raises in salaries that are quaite excessive as is.

The realization has been made all the more apparent as the economies of the world have been heading towards dangerous unsustainable levels in the face of magnifying debt along with political systems clearly out of touch wiht the needs of the public that supports them out of the public's own savings. the unfortunate accompanying apathy that has been captured recently and exploded on YouTube during recent protests on Wall Street by patrons at Cipriani's have only driven home what was long suspected through messages delivered via policy and lack of accountability: many in this segment of population not only could care less, but are publicly unapologetic in their social insensitivity.

You have an economic disaster that has mirrored (and stil does) cumulative circumstances that precipitated the Great depression. What makes this all the more volatile is not only glaringly distasteful displays of apathy but a new componenet that highlights it into the public arena far more effectively than any traditional media: social connectivity through technology and a generation that is proactive.

Unlike previous crashes, this time the public has a lot more information at its fingertips to ruminate over, and also the means to form braod concensus. This population is able to gather information to cross-examine our role in an attempt to address what is happening. Not only are they focused, they are angry, getting real time justification and proof in more readily accessible data channels. add in simmering desperation and vocal discontent along with growing numbers of dienchanted people with shared sentiment and you have a result that may prove to be more volatile that anticipated.

This possibility of such an impactful social turning point isn’t lost on those in fashion who pay attention as the signs have been in the air for a while. When Prince Charles and Camilla Parker-Bowles’ car was attacked in December last year it was obvious that, should economic circumstances degrade further, we would see more overt displays of rage-fuels dissatisfaction. No longer were even the royals, a class of individual you would think as being more guarded with higher security measures, immune from the anger the public felt as being not only abandoned but expected to support conspicuous consumption at their expense when personal circumstances (i.e. potential abject poverty) were making it less logical to do anything but.

Recent sentiment has also alluded to events that transpired a few hundred years ago in Versailles, with similar circumstance reaching a well-documented climax.  Current examination of recent words, actions and an less than transparent deeds from more prominent public figures who object to ongoing protests have only given more evidence to to a population that has way too much time to think in the face of their terrible economic circumstance that we as a society all have contributed to the situation at large and the greed-driven who look to maintain the status quo. And it looks like some designers have incorporated a few elements within their presentations that subtly reflect recognition of what is and what may be of great importance.

Many of the heavyweights such as Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Comme de Garcons, John Galliano, Louis Vuitton and Valentino took reference to the padded hips and sweeping skirts of the 50s and those corseted volumous looks are inspired by Dior and Balenciaga. It is true that the influence of the upcoming Diamond Jubilee in honor of HRH Queen Elizabeth II and her coronation in the 50s lends some aspect as a point of reference. However, those structured garments which derive inspiration from the old masters were inspired by court dress from a time long ago when the divide between haves and have-nots was glaringly apparent. How serendipitous to bring them and the class distinction they signify back into the fold.

One designer in particular, however, has demonstrated a more social conscience to her edge with her designs carrying weight and influence hand in hand with her insight and observations: Vivienne Westwood. Some of the tattered glory in her pieces touched on this sentiment in a different perspective, that this ostentatious and glorious consumption and displays of royal magnificence is an old adage that has worn itself out in the face of what matters in the world.

Continued predictions of dire circumstances fill the channels of media, and the movement that started on Wall Street in Manhattan has grown to one covering more countries the world over with no abatement. It begs of change and reform to restore decency and fairness before it gives up on waiting and takes matters into hand. And if it’s true that history repeats, those stunning couture garments won’t just have a vague reference to a period of upheaval but may become costume updates for a repeat of increasingly widespread sentiment. Those corsets, padded hips, portrait necklines and circle skirts may have been your last creative tip-off. As all things made by man in the name of creativity, they are our symbols and we hope someone is paying attention.

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