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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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The Living Is Easy

The SS2012 collections are in full swing now, with New York certainly continuing to look upon the 90s for details, more wistful memories of when things weren’t as complicated and fashion was rebounding.  String detail (10 Crosby Derek Lam) , wet looks (Derek Lam, Helmut Lang, Tibi), seam detail (Alexander Wang, Chadwick Bell, Dean Quinn, Escada, Rachel Comey),  shrugs (Catharine Malandrino, Rag & Bone, VPL),  and the peek of flesh (Alexander Wang, BCBG Max Azria, Cushnie et Ochs, Helmut Lang, Rachel Comey, Z Spoke by Zac Posen)  were some of the traits of that decade as the populace recovered from the jolt of the recession that started that decade as it wiped clean the excess of what was before.

There are multiple connections to the references to be explored late on but the general direction is a physical coping with heat that designers are addressing, each in their own personal and reflective way.

Some design factors of the 80s lent a trait to collections where heat and comfort are a factor, namely the roominess afforded by boxiness (Alexandre Herchcovitch, Honor, Misha Nonoo, Organic by John Patrick, Thakoon Addition) and general looser, roomier fits taking advantage of the breathing room that structured textiles allows.

Romantic visions of hot places found the Middle East  a source of inspiration, recognized in drape(Altuzarra, Diane Von Furstenburg , Nicholas K ) with swaths of fabric add romance and protection to the wearer.

The sun’s affects were also found in another twist: the effects of a stronger sun on colour. Some colections reflected this in faded prints (Behnaz Sarafpour, Edun, Gary Graham, Gregory Parkinson, Gryphon, Honor, Honor, Peter Som, Steve Alan, Suno).

And some recognize that, in extreme heat, ease and comfort mean a lot more and the energy levels to pull it together can sometimes take a back seat. Some collections took inspiration from a generation that rejected social convention to find its own way as it felt it didn’t; fit with what was before and where ease of dress was more forgiving. The casualness of the hippie generation, be it expressed in batik and tie-dye (Boy by Band of Outsiders, Tadashi Shoji,  or by the cacophony mixed with ramshackle ease (Custo Barcelona, Edun, Skaist-Taylor) was seen.

It will be interesting, as weeks unfold, to see who was inspired by what and to explore how much of this is universal versus regional. But for now, take it in stride. This is about summertime, and while fashion is revealing how we are to dress for next summer, the actual moment is a bit further away. We have time to ease into that.

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