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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Subtlety In Normalcy

When the design community hops on a general trend direction, you have a more confirmed assurance of a global mindset. Collective ostentation can show an understanding of available capital and healthy economic expectations or a last grasp for invigorating the public. But when clothes become more conservative the move towards safety leaves little room for expectations of robust spending.

These signals are best understood by looking at the more maverick creatives who are known for leading rather than following trends. These designers demonstrate confidence in their vision, and their consistent affirmation of insight is reflected in their design history where their vision is powerful enough to inspire other labels to follow in their footsteps.

It’s not always the same names that make the call. The insights rotate as fashion seeks new input and inspiration to keep interest thriving. Sometimes it’s an unknown new player to burst with a fresh and timely point of view and sometimes it’s a more established label that hits the mark. But when the collective voices lean towards a general direction we can derive some reasonable expectations that go beyond aesthetics.

This week Maison Martin Margiela put out their Resort collection. Their line tends to be on the more modern edge of fashion where the details tell the story. In past seasons there was a more of a materials reclamation drive reflecting ecological approaches to fashion. In more recent seasons the creativity has gotten more minimal, utilitarian and somewhat retro, following 90s inspiration that has been infectious in many collections that wish to combine a forward-thinking yet familiar landscape for the public to latch onto.

Seeing a tube top, tank separates, clean lines, ribbon belts, tux/sports striping, tunics over leggings and lean lines all hint at the familiar. The extra set of sleeves or subtle construction details retain the DNA expectations one would have of MMM while fitting in within the greater more accessible theme we are seeing in collections to satisfy more conservative buying patterns.

The clean execution brings us to what is now. This measured approach is not restricted to this label as others in past seasons have gone this direction when the media keeps bringing economic concerns forward. It’s not to say that there isn’t money being spent. However, when the media trumps concerns over algorithms and robotics replacing labour, one has to factor panic into future projections.

The growing concern of technical evolution failing to provide enough assurance of transition for the bulk of then population to maintains consistent livelihood expectations is further exacerbated by grim news of the newest generation of economic focus to have less opportunity or as much earning power than previous generations. It’s not the complete picture but the concerns are emphasized in the general public which triggers survivalist actions such as belt-tightening. Awareness of such behaviour potentials activate the pragmatic aspects of those in the design business and produces the type of modern and subtle design executions we have from the more experimental creatives.

It’ll be interesting to see just how prevalent this point of view is as more collections come available in the coming weeks. For those looking to fashion to get clues on maters beyond what people are wearing, this will be interesting indeed. The messages may require more sensitivity here; subtlety now counts.

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