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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Same Ol' Tulle Story

There are more pre-fall collections from the heavy-hitters, but as their collections are focusing on minimalism, the comments for them are spare as well. Architectural, minimal, stiff textiles and sheer in places. Hence, we move to looking at the SS 2013 couture shows which are coming out now to see how the higher level of fashion is approaching creativity while offering a platform for expression.

Giambattista Valli, Christian Dior and Alexis Mabille all used tulle to effect to soften and add dimension, with Valli and Dior utilizing tulle and chiffon for floral appliqué covering some of their creations, adding a pretty dimensional effect. The softness reflects the traditional femininity being offered. No show, no flash, just prettiness. The modern woman is direct about who she is and what she wants. Right now she, not the clothes, is the focus. And these designers hear that.

That being said, the architectural cuts were more prominent supporting the existing elements such as structured textiles and flashes of sheer while holding a more traditional silhouette with a re-emphasis on the waist. Cuts were quite conventional, actually. The modern couture client is standing out in more subtle ways (i.e. material, detail and custom fit), reflecting the returning perspective of less conspicuous fashion with utilitarian classicism. Translation: more dollar-per-wear, something even the couture client is mindful of. It worked in the 90s and it looks to be the way of today...for most. But not every couture designer is speaking the same language and that is another tale.

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