This collection between collections filled a need, but holiday travel became more within reach as we reached an economic democracy and international travel, with advances in aeronautics, became as commonplace as catching a bus. Calendars and work schedules were increasingly allowing of the masses to have their time off, such as spring break.

Egalitarianism prevailed and wardrobe options followed suit. Meanwhile, the resort collections took on a more strategic role besides acting as clothing for sunny destinations. Fashion always prides itself on being first, the trailblazer, and ardent fans play this game to win at any price. Designers are not lost on this, and so those resort collections have become the appetizer for trend direction.

No longer is there a need to wait until the next year when resort collections can act as an advertising vehicle to flex trendsetting muscle for both the customer and the designer. In an increasingly competitive environment with bragging rights determining relevance laid out in high profile venues amidst an information-overloaded attention span-deficient public, any advantage is essential to retain status. Quality and workmanship mean nothing if the garment is not with the times. The public supports this as does the retail industry that relies on this philosophy for survival.

When we look at last year, the signs were there. Balenciaga had a load of smaller prints and print mixing with similar execution that carried through into the SS 2011 collection. Armani had an overall lean silhouette, using jackets as tops, offering mixed use of sheer integrated into garments, and adding some 30s glam. All of that was in his actual SS2011 collection as well.. and Stella McCartney showed slim pants that were high waisted with hiked high cuffs and, on dresses,  a generous showing of legs backed by equally generous fabric behind. And while the resort collection was more geometric in execution, the effect was the same, utilizing slits in front while backed by generous fabric to showcase long lean legs.

So far the 2012 Resort collections are trickling in, but there are a few patterns emerging. For one, there seemed to be an art influence in the prints, a modern abstract minimalist quality in the placement of colour blocking on white backgrounds. The minimalism and monochrome outfits were present as escada, Bottega Veneta and Chanel (currently getting a lot of flak for offering an overabundance of ideas) as well, although there was an abstract expression to many separates shown at Bottega Veneta and more geometry at Just Cavalli and Escada. Chanel and de la Renta had a lot of geometry as well, with some of Chanel’s being a high contrast monochrome maxi print. Even Chanel’s florals had a background that somehow hardened the overall quality, lending an angular subtext. De la Renta, influenced by Picasso, had many prints with a similar hard edge while Etro, true to form, had the usual cacophony of print and also a lean 90s silhouette. Pastels were very present at Escada, Bottega Veneta and Chanel. Khaki elements and a hint of safari were in a few pieces at Bottega Veneta and Chanel, while both showed stripes and some items had a pearlescent sheen. But while Chanel’s stripes were more conventional, those at Bottega Veneta were more concentrated together. In opposition to the restraint shown in the FW 2011 collections, Escada, Chanel and Oscar de la Renta had a bare midriff amidst their collection (Gwen Steffani, anyone?). Chanel’s footwear, some not as well-received in preliminary reports, brought to mind the 90s.

There was more time play at Chanel, with a few dropped waists and tennis looks that somehow brought to mind a garden party in the 20s (Escada had a few short pleated skirts in the offering too), and some men’s looks that had an air of Regency/Edwardian but reinterpreted with a looser fit al la 80s. Speaking of Edwardian, Daryl K (fantastic person), meanwhile, referenced the Victorian/Edwardian details with a dose of lean mean punk and was quoted as saying “it’s the last party on the Titanic” in reference to her collection (check my earlier blog article “More Champagne please…”), using devore velvet draped angularly in some separates while mixing that with the lean 90s silhouette and artful slashes. Meanwhile, some of the prints at de la Renta also had a Deco aura mixed with the 60s/70s/80s/90s mixture we saw in FW 2011 collections and some flamenco that brought to mind McQueen’s SS2002 collection, And Etro had billowy long scarves as accessories. Plenty to think about…so far.

While you’re deducing that somewhere someone will look at art for inspiration and offer next year’s looks this year, that mindset of selling the future today is kind of what couture does currently. Of course you can be sure that, if that level of progress reaches the public, then someone will make something even more progressive. To do so without overstepping relevance is a tricky feat that some truly brilliant designers in the past have done to their detriment. It turns out you can be too clever for your own good to be too visionary for the market e.g. Vivienne Westwood and the flak she received for emphasis on those razorblade shoulders a few years back. It was too soon for an audience that would later re-embrace the 80s shoulder phenomenon.

For the buying public to gain confidence on that high of a level means having to craft a solid reputation and solidifying confidence that they are buying an investment more than just a piece of clothing. This means asking their customers to play non-conformist even amongst those trying to stay ahead of the pack and the average public, willing to play along so far, doesn’t have that level of devotion to play the fashion game so intensely.

So while there are clues to be mined in the examination of the resort collections, they aren’t too specific so as to detract fro marketplace relevance. The collection may refer to the romance of escape, but it’s not a holiday for the designer to keep up this creative pace and retain a reputation of being on point. It’s an artful execution of ideas that we and buyers alike are more likely to draw upon as we dream of what to wear in upcoming seasons in faraway places.