The collections continue to come in from Resort 2014 and the verdict is overwhelmingly retro. As mentioned before, you had multiple decades represented, be it the 90s (Zimmerman, Yeohlee, Willow, Viktor & Rolf (giant zippers), Vera Wang, Valentino, Tucker, Ter et Bantine, Suno, Rochas, Rebecca Taylor, Ralph Rucci, Opening Ceremony, McQ Alexander McQueen, Maxine Simoens, Maiyet, Lanvin, Josh Goot, Josh Goot, Issey Miyake, Giles, Giambattista Valli, Emilio Pucci, Damir Donna, Cynthia Rowley, Costume National, Belstaff, Azzarro, Alberta Ferretti and ALC); the 80s (Yigal Azrouel, Sass & Bide, Saint Laurent (the early classic era), Roksanda Ilincic, Robert Rodriguez, Max Mara, Louis Vuitton, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Emmanuel Ungaro, Damir Donna, Chalayan, Carven, and Carlos Miele); the 70s (Zimmerman, Yeohlee (arts crafts print), Willow, Wayne, Veronique Branquinho, Veronica Beard, Suno, Sonya Rykiel, See by Chloe, Saloni, Rebecca Taylor, Ralph Rucci, Matthew Williamson, Marni, Louis Vuitton (in tone of casualness), Lanvin, Kaufmanfranco, Josh Goot, Jean-Paul Gaultier, J. Mendel, Giles, Giambattista Valli, Emilio Pucci (that caftan), Carven, Azzarro, Alexander McQueen and Alberta Ferretti); the 60s (Lisa Perry, Karen Walker, House of Holland, Dennis Basso, Belstaff, Alexander Lewis); the 50s (Peter Jensen, Givenchy, DSquared and Dennis Basso); the 40s (Peter Jensen, DSquared and Alberta Ferretti) ; the 30s (Norma Kamali); and the 20s (Willow, Viktor & Rolf, Stella McCartney & Antonio Berrardi (drop waist dresses) and Naeem Khan).
What was noticed overall was the tone of many of the collections. It is true that there is still luxe and polish to be found. However, the rise of more casual and slouchy collections are lending to an informal air that should be familiar to those who lived in the 70s and the 90s, especially when looking at similar economic sentiments. The vulgarity of dressing up in public when others are facing economic crisis was impetus in the 90s towards logo avoidance and understated expression. Casual ness in collection conceptualization reflects this renewed sentiment.
Thus, the slouch factor and ease is found incorporated into collections from 10 Crosby Derek Lam, Gryphon, Jason Wu, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Misha Ninoo, Nina Ricci, Proenza Schouler, Rachel Roy, Tibi, Tracy Reese, Tocca, Timo Weiland, The Row, Stella McCartney, Sharon Wauchob, See by Chloe, Sass & Bide, Roland Mouret, Richard Chai Love, Cedric Charlier and Acne Studios, to name a few. The casual air is found in sporty elements such as at T by Alexander Wang, Rochas, Robert Rodriguez, Prabal Garung, Milly, McQ Alexander McQueen, Markus Lupfer, Emmanuel Ungaro and ALC.
This is not all that the broader economic landscape has brought about regarding influence, and money is one of the main subjects at the center of influences that emanate from the Resort collections. It always has a hand somewhere, and thus seems fitting that memories from the past come into play. After all, that is where many remember where there money was as well.