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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Of Flora And Fauna

W  hile the summer sun roasts those in the north with summer in full swing, the current Resort 2018 collections continue to reveal the shift of what the collection's role has become. Some designers have maintained the traditional core, entering on collections to inspire relief-bringing getaways while others are including pieces to reflect the timing of the collection to when they will appear in stores. These, like pre-fall, are collections that tend to steer towards practicality with a few hints of coming trends thrown in for experimentation's sake. Should a stray effort catch the attention of the public and the media (both traditional and social) it is more likely that it will manifest further into other collections. Fashion can be infectious that way; it's almost organic how concepts and ideas morph and grow. 

Those who have been paying closer attention have noticed a few dominant directions regarding overall concept foundations. In particular, the naturalistic bent fond in the abundance of florals and use of frill suggest something more organic as well, reflecting the current focus on the environment, much of it reactionary in the face of current political affronteries challenging unity towards reversing human impact on our climate and environment as well as continued revelations within and beyond the industry itself on the scope of environmental impact the industry is having. The industry is slowly seeking solutions and calling out offenders, and newer generations are making a pronounced impact via their purchasing decisions and vocal contributions on the subject via social media. yes, we know there is more lip service than progress, and part of the continued focus is the relentless attention to indicate that talk is not enough. The current reversals of environmental policies in particular being spoken about are in happening primarily in the USA, and in a weird way those actions are only serving to strengthen efforts globally and locally to take on the work that the current administration seems to be seeking to undo.

​You'd think that environmentalism is a relatively new concept, with many under the impression that the 60s and especially the 70s were the foundation eras for the environmental movement and in some ways the organized concerted efforts we see today do have many roots in what was organized back then. However, environmentalism went further back, particularly in the UK when it came to managing resources in their colonies. During the late 18th and through the 19th century the UK focused on land management and irrigation, further study of flora, subsidized botanical studies and agricultural research. By the early 20th century, particularly in India, forestry management practices and preservation was further instituted and inspired many to become further interested in nature, spilling into architecture and fashion.

Here we are, one hundred years later and collections are filled with flora and naturalistic touches galore. many collections have this floral touch and many continue the ruffling and curvy cuts that harmonize with naturalism. In some collections we also see organic rambling segmentation evident in collections by Monse and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi; organic overflow at ADEAM, Faith Connexion, Hellessy, Naeem Khan, Preen Line, Roksanda and Stella McCartney; and organic freshness in colour on form at Delpozo. And let's not forget the increase in use of reclaimed materials and the stepping away for chemical processes within the denim industry as new crops of designers incorporate cumulative environmentally-freindly textiles and processes as a way of doing our part to repair the damage we have done.

The use of cut, colour, shape and form to translate sentiments and thoughts on behalf of their audience if not merely themselves is part of what makes the examination of fashion more than whether it can make it to a subjective "best or worst" list; the impact of politics has resulted this season in statement efforts that art trains creatives for to relay where we are and what we are looking towards. Is it all cohesive or on the same page? That is a good question that we can address next time. For now, a walk in the park to enjoy the sun is the order of the day as we ponder what's next.

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