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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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The Big Four fashion weeks are soon upon us to show what 2014 will hold for us. For many, these are the only ones to pay attention to as these hold the crème of fashion. These weeks from these key fashion centers feature international fashion heavyweights that are more likely to hold influence and indicate the primary directions fashion is heading to. And yet our world is changing. The international market is more accessible, and other fashion weeks are fast maturing, bringing new perspectives that are becoming more within the sphere of international relevance while bringing a unique perspective rooted in cultures that have traditionally been outside of the main fashion centers and thus hold interesting perspectives that bring new life to fashion…or so we hope.

In the early 80s, this exploration for fresher perspectives was linked to a newer maturing market. It had gained interest as it embraced technology and wielded economic power, providing a unique design perspective that challenged boundaries: Japan.  This tiny island nation caught international attention in a period that was ready for something fresh and new beyond the traditional fashion centers. It isn’t the first time to have done so, for it contributed to the Japponaise influence in French fashion in the 20s. But whereas the traditional aspects were appreciated back then and represented a romantic exoticism of a foreign culture out of reach for the majority of the masses, the technical explosion that happened in the 80s made a greater impact as we became interested in looking towards the future and thus their remoteness  coupled with this technical advancement touched on a new type of fascination. In fact, for a while Japan’s impact was such that fashion became about the Big Five. Unfortunately, when their economy tanked in the early 90s and their technically experimental creative edge grew redundant and irrelevant in the face of the shifting aesthetic climate (overtaken by the more accessible grunge movement), their influence took a back seat.

Our return towards the future and technology and willingness to revisit the edge of the 80s has renewed interest in Japan, while the focusing on emerging economies such as Russia, China and BRIC nations have given motivation to be more inclusive of their markets into the larger fashion arena. All this plus the increased international access that our technology and networks bring further open the doors for other fashion weeks beyond the traditional. Lucky for Copenhagen that has found attention all due to perfect timing.

Just as in the late 80s, this tiny fashion center was looked at when attention spans became desensitized to the larger centers that were running out of inspiration. If the need to new blood was the reason in the go-go 80s, the rehashing of retro and slowness of evolution hampered by economic concerns has set up a climate for supporting a wandering eye.

Editors have been excited about collections coming out of their fashion week which just recently wrapped up. Representing a hub for Scandinavia, the Copenhagen shows are finding the right balance of relevance coupled with subtle uniqueness that has caught attention of online fashion publications such a V and Style.com and anything from Conde Nast.  And yet the consistent threads show a harmony of perspective; Monsoon Saloon, Anne Sophie Madsen, Freya Dalsjø and WoodWood all featured hard geometry, some reminiscent of the Deco geometry at Gucci a few seasons back. Volume with structured textiles are here as well. Anne Sophie Madsen delivering some armour-like construction that resembles transformers with a Balenciaga edge. Bababra i Gongini brought a creative 80s spirit in the predominantly black collection playing up textural mixes and creative cuts while Finnish brand Marrimekko tapped into a louder more colourful display of pattern and happy geometry. Freya Dalsjø brought structured kimono-like layers  and volume, again a hint of late 80s in the simplicity. All in all, the looks are well done and creative. Yet to someone who pays closer attention to what is happening in the fashion industry, those presented had a familiarity that could be found in other collections. So what was different that captured so much interest? What was it that stirred reactions. How about the colours?

Colours used in many of the collections were the most unique and subtle aspect, and for those who understand colour psychology their choices perhaps resonated most with those looking for freshness. Just as in last season, the colours in the Copenhagen collections were unusual without being out of sync with the mindset at large. If fashion is a language, colour is the syntax that brings flavor and shapes the message the collections bring to the public. And as we look for, are ready for, and are even eager for newness, Copenhagen demonstrated that. In fact, what came out of Copenhagen showed that luck is really about preparation and timing.  Well soon see if the other fashion weeks of the Big Four/Big Five have the good fortune or, if not, who else can capitalize on our hunger for relevant newness. We seem to be ready for that.

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