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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Lizzy in the Sky

With technology at the level it currently is, standard collections can incorporate the level or workmanship and precision that once was reserved for haute couture. Exemplary detail and ornamentation are increasingly more commonplace in a larger selection of design offerings to further entice the seasoned fashionista at prices more accessible as opposed to that of couture, the level many fashion devotees aspire to.

Of course part of the glamour of couture that goes beyond the fantastic hand-rendered workmanship, the luxurious quality of sumptuous fabric, glove-like fit and incredible details beholden of fine art is the exclusitivity that it offers. To wear couture is the ultimate signal that this is a very exclusive club and is limited to the select few who can participate.

Traditionally this segment of fashion was not just the reservoir for the finest materials but also the platform of trends and ideas. Items and concepts that percolate though the various levels of fashion start first and foremost here. For example, colour trends that are currently appearing in prêt-a porter showed up in these couture collections; look to the return to pastels as seen in SS2011 Couture collections by Givenchy, Valentino, Chanel and Dior.

By dissecting these collections, you can see indications of new directions that are sure to trickle down the fashion food chain, although the rise of communication and increased speed in manufacturing has cut down this pace considerably. A brand that takes inspiration for the low end market once had to wait a few years for ideas to trickle down, with part of it being the insecurity on the manufacturers’ part as they wait to see what the market favors. Here the bottom line takes precedence over taking risks, especially when the talent for picking up on trend directions isn’t always in their budget. It costs money to not only hire that level of creativity and instinct but to support any misses that may have been committed along the way.

With access to a larger content of more readily available information, companies no longer have to wait so the process is now more instant. This is good for the average consumer who now can participate in trends but makes ideas and concepts by fashion leaders a more guarded commodity. And for the fashion elite who look to being ahead of the pack, that game has now been amped up.

The designer at the top of the hierarchy that is responsible for producing design collections knows which trend will be relevant to their clientele and, moreso, relevant to the overall fashion cycle. Some ideas that look to be trend-worthy may have little relevance, such as the 50th anniversary of man’s flight into space that wasn’t even caught on fashion radar.  Others may be just perfectly timed and are worthy of exploring.

In the world of couture one designer, heavily influential, is well-aware that his tangent is, when looking at the larger scheme of things, due to be relevant. Next year of course is the Diamond Jubilee of HRH Queen Elizabeth II, and looking at Chanel’s SS2011 couture collection all you can think of is the lightness and sparkle of a well-polished gem, with these items sure to be worn in circles where the Queen is more likely to be a guest.

Such sparkle didn’t initially make sense, especially as crystal-crusted clothes were a been-there-done-that statement a few seasons ago. Further, when looking at other collections this didn’t seem as congruous. But then again, that is how trends are born in fashion; someone has to take a calculated risk. Having the anniversary of someone in such high profile helps a lot. Having a Hollywood icon celebrated upon her passing, sad as this is, is serendipitous focus. As well, it is executed in a completely different manner, reborn if you will.

Mr. Lagerfeld is a genius who knows exactly what he is doing and his glittering collection for Chanel Couture became the “talk of the town”. As indicated, some elements from couture, such as the colour story and the use of texture, have already showed up in the prêt-a-porter collections for FW2011. With this special anniversary one of two things may likely happen: we’ll see some modern crystal arrangement in the SS2012 collections, or a temporary increase in utilization of accessories that are clear, vibrant, modern and sparkly. Nevertheless, like trend evolution cycles, diamonds are forever.

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