The examination process of the Spring Summer 2016 collections from the more major locations are telling a tale of two mindsets. One which has been examined in great length at Fashion Observed is our continued involvement with everything that was. The attachment to the familiar is a great source of comfort as we seek to define what is before us with what surrounded us before. That is, it give us assurance of how to cope when we can refer to what we know. That is the problem with the future when we deal with so much that is not positive affirmative: its unknown quality can leave a "glass half full" mentality lingering and colouring our expectations of the future on a bad day. On a good day, however, the future holds promise. We know we cannot escape what is to come and when we have positive indicators we can charge ahead with the future and embrace newness. Jarring events can push us back, albeit temporarily. Not too long ago the post 9/11 years saw us regress into retro territory as the future we hoped for after conquering Y2K saw us enter a world of terror, suspicion and innocence robbed juts as fashion was taking off into future-forward embrace.
A factor that can and is splitting us is largely economic. Collections that lean towards the past look to satisfy those who fear change and feed the need for stability when uncertainty looms large. When economics gripped the 30s, fashion took a leaning towards more classic shapes following the familiarity of the body. The wartime mid-century had rationing force creativity into the backburner in favor of simplicity. Economic issues also drove us towards classic territories in the 70s, early 80s and early 90s.
Collections that are more fashion-forward have a fearless "nothing to lose" factor; better to go with both guns blazing than to live one's final moments cowering and wondering "what if?". These also come at the edge of prosperity exhausting, such as in the late 20s, late 50s, late 60s and early 70s, late 80s and mid to late 90s. in these periods, we pushed the envelope creatively and saw some great fashion ideas explode forth.
Thus we find ourselves of two camps in fashion as we move further into our new millennium, caught in the cusp of fear and faith. We drag our feet to move forward, yet know we will go forward if not by our doing then by newer generations that take the torch as they make claim on today as their time.
There are many designers that utilize new textiles and techniques in construction (some which follow the Fashion Observed Twitter feed), and some have a few elements of experimentation. this season had a lot to look through as most designers blended convention with exploration as they tested the waters while balancing pragmatic economic aspects (remember, fashion is above all a business). There are always some labels leading the way in the realm of form and direction. At this point stronger exploration is being found in collections by Acne Studios, Anrealage, Anya Hindmarch, Aquilano Rimondi, Area, Berhard-Willhelm, Damir Doma, David Koma, D Squared, Emilio Pucci, Faustine Steinmetz, Fausto Puglisi, Iris van Herpen. Kolor, KTZ, Louis Vuitton, Marni, Moschino, Phillipp Plein, Phoebe English, Ports 1961 and Threeasfour. These give rise to what is coming by what they are contributing. these feed the imagination for successive generations that will take fashion forward much the way avant garde designers in the 80s did before that have found their influence revisited heavily these days.
From here we will see what sticks and what falls to the wayside not so much due to popularity but to whether the public is ready to embrace innovation. We will do so...if we can afford it.