There is no denying that fashion is a fickle business. Even those who pay attention to indicators can be surprised by turns of events that betray expectations.  For those who pay attention to fashion, something was noticed. Despite the anticipation and participation within the fashion community, the 20s trend that was generously hyped never really got off the ground. In fact, UK’s Telegraph indicated that many collections bombed in stores while noticing the absence of Deco-inspired gowns at the Great Gatsby premier.

One would think that the buzz generated when the remake by Baz Luhrmann was announced and the subsequent trailers would have been enough to work fashionistas into a frenzy. Data from economic indicators showing the parallel between that period and now precipitated the inspiration as the script got into production. The hardness and defensiveness that lends to geometric design was also present and well received otherwise. With current economic circumstances and somewhat still accessible dream of prosperity despite those circumstances, the glamour of the period seemed a welcome and perfectly-times escape.

However, there was a missing element to capitalize on the other factors and this one is crucial for a trend to take hold: timing. As designers were rolling out collections dripping with 20s inspiration, DJs and musician’s generated 20s-inspired music and even advertisers found way tom incorporate aspects into their campaigns the centerpiece of the momentum stalled. As the hotly anticipated release of the film was delayed, the momentum was lost. Everything culminated with this easily accessible factor that would have allowed the public to tie in on a more superficial level and thus connect with the inspiration.

Our public does not have the attention span to sustain anticipation like it had in the past, and this delay would spell the undoing of the trend. As the delay occurred, other sentiments were able to take hold, and thus allow the public to release themselves from the hype. Dressing for a party that was too far away to anticipate is not a desirable element when it comes to trend development. And so, as the film came, many that could have been swept up in the moment had already moved on.

Time also allowed for thought concerning that type of cultured exactitude that 20s glamour represents. It harks to a time of sharper design where big budgets are at play. In the 80s the trend was welcomed not only for the cavalier festive spirit but also was accessible as many had more resources and more motivation to spend; the culture was about super-consumption and easy credit, similar to that period. But the delay and evolving economic picture steered people away from embracing this. There was still hardness, but it gave way to another trend direction that has simmered alongside the Gatsby trend that was covered in earlier articles.

A party may be too expensive, but a festival is more accessible, particularly in the festival spirit of the freer hippie era. The economics and focus on youth culture coupled with the DIY spirit and exhaustion of rigid defensiveness are more harmonious with the current population. And while other collections carried the exactitude in cut and pattern, Hedi Slimane’s controversial debut at Saint Laurent signaled a challenge to expectations. Many critics were not kind about his debut, declaring the collection derivative and all too familiar, but this is a man who put himself deliberately out of the glamour of the industry, choosing instead to hang out and design in LA. His location for inspiration allowed him to be more in touch with the buying public and, in turn, to produce a line that was recognized by buyers as one that may not meet editor’s expectation but would be a success in the stores. The buyers understood what their customers wanted, and the hippie inspiration was speaking loudly to them.

Articles and fashion editorials over the past spring and summer have been putting focus on the festival look and the spirit behind it seems more in line with summer. The exhibition in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts that recently opened focuses on the influence of hippie culture in fashion and is already taking getting a lot of attention. The public has spoken and fashion is listening.

Does this mean that the glamour or even hardness has gone? Does this mean that we are looking for the summer of love?  That depends on who you’re asking and that’s another article entirely.