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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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En Garde

It is an unfortunate reality that world events become intertwined with the economic landscape we inhabit, defining as much about who we are as what we are capable of.

There will be some who will look to capitalize on the backs of tragedy to elevate their desire for fame and profit, while others will show their humanity via their positions. The fashion world, for all the negativity it absorbs and the faults it still navigates, contains within it many incredible citizens who know their humanity and project this sentiment as much as other emotions and interpretations in the platforms they have earned.

The 9/11 attacks came in the midst of New York Fashion Week, disrupting this world as any other. The impact was not merely economic but spiritual. Out of sensitivity collections worldwide were purged of distressed elements, recognizing the inappropriateness of this trend in the face of what was seen live on international airwaves. Some designers, such as Tom Ford, immediately rejigged their runways from an above level runway to a ground level presentation as he felt fashion should not be elevated over the people (good on him) Donatella Versace was more vocal, flashing a message to the audience before her runway presentation that defiantly announced how our creativity would not be held hostage (good on her). Fashion felt the need to go on, to show that we do not brake for evil intent and while admitting fashion is not above human life that life is meant to be lived in the face of those looking to rob it from us (good on you).

This event brought a new world that stole our innocence and yet we adapted. Years later we demonstrated pride in how we moved forward and thrived despite; terrorism would not win and any Spring Summer 2016 presentations at ground zero were testament to this.

It is truly unfortunate that today we must witness another vicious attempt to disrupt peace through senseless violence on the innocent in the city of lights, the beautiful fashion capital of Paris. It is also another unfortunate reality that what has taken place will likely shape something as innocuous as what we wear, for fashion will absorb the emotions and sentiments surrounding this and find a place in its interpretation if not because of it then in spite of it.

Already the ongoing events resulting from war and displacement has retriggered emotions similar to those in Europe before World War Two. Growing economic unease and destabilization were coupled with increased xenophobia as the public felt resentment over increased immigrants' presence and perceived negative impact on stressed economies. Sadly, we are seeing history repeat with the influx of Syrian refugees  and tensions over immigrants' presence. 

This sentiment is not restricted to Europe. Similar discussions are finding its way globally, including the more public displays vocalized by candidates in the upcoming American elections where immigration has risen to the foreground.

All of this triggers nationalistic sentiments now as it did then, some of which were expressed in more jovial ways in Spring Summer 2016 collections knowing there will be more positive nationalist expressions when the 31st Olympiad will be underway. The patriotic red, white and blue was prominent at Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren but the same combination that France shares with its overseas comrade was also seen at Chanel, Kenzo and Lacoste.

This pride defines in the midst of collective inclusion. How we choose to express this growing sentiment will determine whether we become withdrawn and compartmentalized or whether we choose, as we did before, to defy the objectives of those who think violence deserves prominence in our world and rise above it. But we need to remember this is experience that is life is not only about us but as much if not more about each other, and even something as seemingly frivolous as fashion should uphold that. Upcoming collections will let us know, and hopefully will not disappoint.

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