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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Dressing For the Dustbowl

Now the 2016 Pre-fall collections are coming. Notably, some of the heavy hitters of fashion are bursting out of the gates. Some, like Chanel are providing extensive collections that reflect their reach while others are providing more modest sized collections.

Fashion, money and size is a more recent topic as economics continue to be a focus. Fashion will always exist, but the survival of labels hinges on more robust economic activity that provides the population with the means to enjoy consumption. While designers such as Vivienne Westwood are pushing for less consumption (quality over quantity, albeit the environment is the shared subtext) many rely on our habit of fashion turnover to thrive. Whether we like it or not, consumption is part of how we grow.

But those darn economics...frightening images when you turn back the clock and look at the legendary status of the greatest economic shock that is known as the Great Depression. The feverish consumption fueled by credit and investment naivety in the 20s practically vanished after the great stock market crash of 1929 known as Black Tuesday. Not a great way to start the next decade where unemployment dipped to 25% at its height.

Fashion changed. The hypercreativity and experimentation, along with the excess and luxury that many had a taste of gave way to simpler prints and silhouettes that were more natural. Funny enough, many women were not such big fans of the androgynous waistless looks even though it was all the rage, and felt these did not bring out their femininity. Silhouettes in the 30s followed the body's curves more as people became more grounded.

We, being in a more complex world, see that fashion is catering to many lifestyles and situations. There is still creativity and expression at play with shape and structure, such as those collection from Fendi, See by Chloe and Zac Posen. But some others so far are letting the public know it's feeling the fear that's filling the news pages. And with doomsday banners filling headlines it conjurs images of the dirty 30s. Collections from Karen Walker and Cinq a Sept contain some of those simpler and more languid forms.

There was luxury in the 30s. it catered to those at the extremes of the economic spectrum that survived the crash and kept their distance. But now as it was then, the divide made for envy over participation, and there wasn't as much of wealth going around to sustain volumes. Fashion, recognizing it may need to let go of some of the glam to survive, is showing some natural selection in the creative process. The glam will never die, but it may be pruned to thrive just as it did in the 70s and 90s...two other decades enjoying continued presence in the fashion dialogue known as pre-fall.

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