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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Details, details…

When looking at timelines from an economic stance, the pattern on which such decadence exists speaks volumes of how people react to a financial crisis. While most people recall only a handful of recessionary events, history reveals that the incidences of recessions are more frequent than recalled. In fact, there have been twenty-one within the last century with many lasting ten to fifteen weeks each occurrence. But the more impactual incidences are ones from eras such as the Belle Epoch, the late 20s/early 30s, and the cusp of both ends of the 60s and the 80s. In these time periods, there was an output of creativity but more so of lavishness in the face of aestheticism that the rest of the general public had to endure. For that general public, this means scaling back to focus on the necessities and there is little room for ambition via consumption. However, when faced with potential austerity and limitation, the loss of freedom and threat of a comfortable way of life can be traumatic, especially for those who are accustomed to an elevated lifestyle.

There has aleays been a stigma concerning poverty, and when the gap is more prominent the reaction is to consume more conspicuously to signal to peers and the public that there is less of an association with that stigma, and it is not restricted to one socio-economic group. Research performed by Nikolai Roussanov (Assistant Professor of Finance) at the Wharton University of Pennsylvania and by Kerwin Kofi Charles & Erik Hurst at the University fo Chicago showed how common this behaviour is, explaining their findingd by stating "The intuition ifs that as poorer people are added to the population, persons of every income level must now signal more to distinguish themselves from those immediately poorer than themselves and are now compelled to spend more to distinguish themselves who are poorer still." The average American houselod is in debt for $119,000, the Candian household owes $96,000, the average debt loat for the UK household is £58,000, the average French household owes 35,000...we could go on...the false standard of living maintained in keepingthis distance has elevated the race beyond the breaking point for most of the public, and thus the stakes are raised for those in the upper realms of the economy. The result is generous image preservation to declare immunity to the advertised effects of the downturn portrayed in the media. And the collections are catering to this insecurity (and validating a concrete distance) in spades.

The FW2011/2012 couture collections have come on the heels of the presentations for both the 2012 Resort and SS2012 menswear collections, a reminder that our summer, yet in full swing, has finite shelf life and planning for the upcoming season is upon us. If there is anything to be garnered from the impression of the collections that have been revealed, above all it is that opulence is reaching a decadent height, with sumptuous velvets and satins (Valentino, Armani Privé), fur accents (Alexis Mabille, Gaultier) and marabou details (Chanel, Gaultier, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy) about, and a lot of chiffon studded with beading and sparkle (Chanel, Elie Saab, Maxime Simoens, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy). It’s not that the materials are present, but how up-front the luxuriousness is.

There is no question that, in stricter economic times, a consumer wants to maximize return for their expenditure. The FW2011/2012 collections have succeeded in validating this expectation. The materials are full of shine, the beading thick, the ruffles and textures prominent, the fabrics plush (or in the case of chiffons, delicate). The materials speak loudly and let you know they are very present and plentiful. Save for the collection by Bouchra Jarrar, the rest were extremely extravagant and defined exactly what luxury is meant to be, and there were some very beautiful items presented that not only beg to be coveted, but retain a classic quality that ensures their timeless beauty.

Full of texture and dimension, the execution was focused not in experimental cut but on more classic lines, and the traditional materials were crafted with precision. Honoring the reputation of couture, these pieces hark back to a time when couture was for a class removed from the masses and where the expectation of the finest was de rigueur. It’s timeless sensibility in luxuriousness and in workmanship is the classic aspect of what is being shown to a customer base that, in the face of challenging times, are looking for the best PR: a passport away from social dishonor. And while materials may signal a form of status, in couture the real declaration of secure elevation is all in the details. And there are plenty of those to look at.

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