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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Come The Danes

T he Japanese influence that blasted the 80s into new fashion territory has been long coming into play for years; when proportion play and asymmetry become classics, you know the future is now.

The impending Olympics in Japan plus the replay of 80s revisited with delight in pop culture both in music and in entertainment throws open the doors for full revisits that really are just deeper interest in elements we haven’t left since they first arrived. The new generations are ready to relive the stories long told of excess and excitement, innocence and hardcore drama enveloped with the sophistication of art that the 80s was known for.

The influence is quite international, and trend-setting nations do not ignore the new norm. Rather, they join in the full expression. And when the cool kids on the block like those at Copenhagen Fashion Week surprise the industry with shows just before the Big Four, it’s hard not to take notice.

Barbara i Gongini brought tribalism and deconstructed drape with tissue roominess. Asger Juel Larsen had some looks amidst light structured oversize that appeared weather-wet while Freya Dalsjo also shared volume with the casual deflation rather than structure, falling away in volume and cut layers. Ganni found California 70s/90s normcore ease we’ve grown all too familiar with, adding a dash of nostalgia cowboy (a hint of Westworld, anyone?). Such homespun pioneering frill was seen in volumous knits at Lala Berlin as well. Dashes of Japan were seen at Han Kjobenhavn and Henrik Vibskov, while, amidst the overfill and pastel-rich volume at Nicholas Nybro, the tawdry 2000s got a nod. Even the understated got an 80s creative twist with separates at Mark Kenly Domino Tan and Saks Potts.

Our new norm is not the norm. The higher lean in style fulfills individuality while declaring the class distinction of mindful design versus are function and base utilitarian style. And it will be interesting to see how the Big Four respond in this international conversation of style.

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