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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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It seemed a bit early for 2014 resort collections to appear and yet some from the bigger players in fashion were the first out of the gates to capture our attention and give us markers to compare with.

And there was a lot to look at as some were quite sizeable.

If the devil is in the details then the devil was very busy. Chanel Diesel Black Gold and Bottega Venetta both featured a lot of crafty detailing in the intricate workmanship. For Chanel and Bottega Venetta, the detailing came in the execution. There were layers cobbled on top of each other artfully, and layers painstakingly painted in strategic places, bringing a controlled form of decay into the process without giving actual wear. Christian Dior cobbled the varied textured and textiles more asymmetrically, playing with chiffons and strategic material placement amidst layers where lace and zips offered more than one way of pouring through. The artful details assembled on top of existing layers at Diesel Black Gold were more structured and masculine, mixing the biker/motocross chic on lean lines. And strategic slashing and textile placement on the body was heavily established for the Versus Versace J.W. Anderson Collection.

The hard masculinity that has been consistently pervasive for several collections and expressed in the details has not left, but the layers of detail are now fused on top rather that loosely applied. If we had complexity to examine before, there is more cohesion in the elements. In fact, if there was one thread of commonality, it was about merging. It was the merging of workwear details for Diesel; the merging of craft and polish at Bottega Venetta and Chanel; the merging of restraint and freedom at Dior; and the merging of perspective collaboratively between Donatella Versace and J.W. Anderson for the Versus line.

And maybe, in the times that we have now where uncertainty and fear provides a backdrop for expression in our arts and entertainment these days, the natural reaction is to come together. It will be interesting to see how many designers share this sentiment in the coming weeks.

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