More of Resort 2014 trickled in with most from the US side of fashion. At least that would be the assumption if one wasn’t told about the origins of the labels when looking at the design elements that were more predominant.
The bulk of collections in the US last year took inspiration from the 90s as it sought to backtrack to the last known point of impact in the quest to find its way towards the future via a more familiar route that wouldn’t alienate the buying public wary of moving too fast into a future it wasn’t sure it was ready for. It seems, from what was shown so far, anyway, that this buying public still has trouble moving forward if the collections that came out more recently are of any indication.
Collections from Akris and Elie Tahari more clean and architecturally minimal, the silhouette again the 90s slimming look that we tend to associate with youthful modernity. Meanwhile, Oscar de la Renta hovered within the confines of the elegant couture-inspired mid-century, peppering their line with florals. One top was a mix of print and embroidered that felt very 90s arts and crafts, something also shared in one top within the Clover Canyon collection as it hung onto the kaleidoscoped prints, mixing it with a dash of 70s pop art details and flourishes of flamenco-esque flounce (something we’re sure to see more of given South America’s focus soon as trending companies such as UK’s Mudpie have attested).
The 70s certainly found its way into Moschino Cheap & Chic’s collection, reminiscent of when the campiness of the Brady Bunch found its way into inspiration in the mid-90s. Meanwhile, those who remember when evening fabrics made their way into daywear and when sport was part of the 90s vernacular will feel at home with DKNY as this collection finds new ways to remix that 90s concept.
Some of that 70s neckerchief printing and 90s machinated lace/mesh sectional placement in white will favor the Just Cavalli line that mixed these elements with leopard, and more leopard and black in cleaner more conservative cuts. The right balance that was played with then seems to feel at home again.
If there is any experimentation, it’s certainly dialed back for now or restricted to technical execution of details or textiles that let the wearer know they are contemporary while blending in with the bulk of the population that has so far sent the signal that they can’t…or won’t …be able to dress for anything resembling the future just quite yet. For now, reruns will have to do.