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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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Now the deluge comes as images of Resort 2014 collections arrive at the editorial rooms of the many fashion publications and blogging sites that rely on these collections for their livelihood.  As the volume increases like a flash flood, one hopes for glimmers of innovation amidst the careful design decisions of recent.

The continuance of retro as a foundation is clearly evident with even the more creative all-stars, both new and old alike, recognizing that profit is assured by giving people what they want...even if it means being stuck in some form of fashion limbo.

Again and said many times in other articles before, this is not the fault of the designers, although for some the safer route has come more easily to them and it will be interesting to see how they will survive when fashion finally roars forward again. But to see some who flexed their creativity pull back in time it is clear that they have little choice if they are to enjoy their livelihood. As also said many times before in other articles, this industry is, above all, a business.

The proliferation of retro moves seems to be closer to the end of the last century, with many designers hovering around the 90s (Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein Collection, Elizabeth & James (denim), Giorgio Armani, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Jason Wu, Jen Kao, Jonathan Simkhai 9sihouettes), M. Patmos, Michael Kors, Nicole Miller, Nina Ricci, Ports 1961, Rachel Roy, Rachel Zoe, Rag & Bone, Reed Krakoff, Tess Giberson, Theyskin's Theory (Style.com blatantly called this one out), Versace and Wes Gordon), the 80s (Calvin Klein Collection, Cristian Siriano, Elizabeth & James (boxiness), Helmut Lang (dark hardness) ICB (clean punk hardness), Jen Kao, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Ohne Titel, Pringle of Scotland, Rag & Bone, Reed Krakoff and Thakoon), and the 70s (Adam Lippes, Alice + Olivia, Altuzarra, Caroline Hererra (prints), Donna Karan (some denim-like pieces or the wide lapel leather jacket, Gryphon, Honor, Jen Kao, Jonathan Simkhai, Michael Kors, Trina Turk (print) and Ports 1961). Some are still tapping the youth of the 60s (Colette Dinnigan, Giuletta, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Jill Stuart, Versace) whiel a few are looking towards the elegance of the 50s (Michael van der Ham, Pamella Roland, ZAC Zac Posen) and 40s (Lela Rose, ZAC Zac Posen) and even the early 30s (Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen).

The proliferation of 70s is not to be ignored. For sure there are elements of glam (3.1 Philip Lim, Marc Jacobs) and hippie cultures (3.1 Philip Lim, BCBG Max Azria, Gregory Parkinson and Rachel Comey), with vintage feel (Anna Sui, although that’s perpetual) patchwork (Band of Outsiders, Jonathan Simkhai) and fringe (Adam Lippes, Altuzarra, Catherine Malandrino and  Jason Wu) thrown in for good measure.

And while some are travelling in time, others are thinking of actual travel. Looking at the collections so far,  many are more urban-minded in their creative expression (Ralph Lauren, for example; his holiday seems to be down the street this season), but some are braving the far reaches of Africa (Josie Natori, Michael Kors, Rebecca Minkoff and Zero + Maria Cornejo) while some are feeling India incorporating the tunic over pants look (10 Crosby Derek Lam, Emporio Armani, Rachel Comey, and again Zero + Maria Cornejo).

There are aspects to this, of course, and you can bet they will be thought about and written for your reading pleasure. The usual suspect i.e. the economy is a large part of it. There is more to this, of course and this requires elaboration…at another time. It’s finally sunny and its summer. That means resort isn’t just something to read about, so get outside; there will be more next time.

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