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Fashion Observed


Trend observations with a sociological eye from afar...

by Darryl S. Warren  

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In every development, fashion bends with the whims of the public. When women exercised their rights for freedom, such as in the 20s,60s and 70s, fashion made sure to accommodate in cut and design. We owe our modern selections to the trailblazers of each decade, for they made fashion what it is today.

As well, fashion can be very sensitive to politics, especially when events tap into the collective consciousness. It would behoove those in fashion to ignore world affairs, especially when it affects many of their clientele. Fashion is nothing if not flexible. Design respects this. When it comes to debates of appropriateness versus freedom, it is the hemline that measures who is winning the debate. When it comes to balance of power versus gender roles, it is the degree of menswear elements and of provocative exposure that signals where we stand.

Not only does fashion move within more broad-based technical areas, but also along design inspiration. The mod high tech 60s was a product of heavy influence due to attention on the space race. The ethnic handicraft inspiration in the 70s came from a generation that went travelling the world to find itself. The  Asian inspiration of the late 70s and 80s initially came from increased trade and a larger economic presence from Japan that reopened the door to the backpacking trend along the Silk Road route, and consequently allowed for more inspiration to come from the entire Asian region.  When Africa and the increasingly dire issue of famine was a focus of concern in the 80s, fashion reflected this with more Afrocentric influences. One recent event contradicting another may have yet to be realized, and yet its appearance may remind us that aspects of history can repeat. Recently there has been a lot of media attention on the gay culture and its impact in the media. The new pope has taken a more humane stance, asking its congregations to be more forgiving and accepting of those in the LGBT communities. Some states in the US are heralding victories concerning marriage as a right. Some countries, such as Montenegro, are having dialogue concerning readjusting their points of view. But one country has actually made a defiant step that seems out of sync with more global compassion: Russia.

The recent change in their laws to outlaw rights accepted in more progressive first world countries seemed almost barbaric in more Western countries. With less than two hundred days before the winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia, the timing could not have been worse. This was made more apparent as a petition to approach the IOC via AllOut.org is circulating to pressure Russia to change and concerning a Vancouver, Canada bar boycotting Russian vodka at the eve of one of the largest Pride celebrations in North America news has gone viral.

The momentum is sure to persist as the issue is sensitive and volatile, perfect for news outlets looking for a story that will engage the public. The question is how this will affect fashion, an industry with a formidable LGBT presence. And yet the passion over gay marriage in Paris plus various Muslim countries that support repression of anything LGBT has made this subject more internationally hot-blooded.

On a more humanitarian front, the Western world does not support regression on human rights, and thus everything Russian may turn out to be everything rotten. Certainly those who support homophobia would be on thin ice wearying Russian-influenced attire, especially as Russia is still associated within older generations with Communism, which in itself is politically un-American. Given how much of an influence the Western world has culturally, Russia may have shot itself in the foot just as it was making headway in the fashion industry. After all, who wants to wear anything Russian if the country supports human rights regression? Not anyone in New York or London, and there is some serious fashion influence right there. The odd coincidence would be how it affects Russia hosting the Olympics. In 1980 it‘s games were globally boycotted due to politics when it invaded Afghanistan. Should the momentum over this issue persist, it may find itself unwittingly contributing to the 80s flavor already rooted in fashion as it becomes yet another hallmark of history repeating.

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